Posts Tagged ‘India’



Carry on up the Khyber

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

Land of Contrasts? Tell me about it. Yesterday we trained from Cochin, a local second class stopper laughably called the Parasuram Express, which hugs the Keralan coast for eight hours of swaying hell as an army of shouting hawkers march the aisle with chai, coffee, curries, fried bananas, dodgy torches, Hindu fiction and religious tracts, all of which could be optimistically described as colourful – but not the toilets. These squatting hole-in-the-floors offer nothing but nothing to grip for support and though I was able to brace my head against a wall Alex had no such luxury, so a real toilet in our beach cottage last night proved heaven – until pressing the flush button revealed too late I was sitting on a state-of-the-art Toto Eco-Washer and my scream, as a freezing burst of water intruded off the Richter, had Alex rushing in lest I’d discovered non-brochure wildlife.

While accepting the maker’s claim the saving of paper contributes to preserving the rainforests, I’d sooner be lashed to the top of a mahogany tree as Brazilian loggers circle with buzzsaws than experience that again.

Low margins in Backwaters

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

In the absence of roads in the Keralan Backwaters all haulage is by lake or canal and with profit margins thinner than the locals, overloading is the norm. These two are shifting sand for construction with a freeboard that would have Samuel Plimsoll turning in his grave. Nifty bailing with a handy saucepan is the only way to prevent sinking from the wake of passing rice barges which is maybe why the skipper’s taken up smoking.

Pondicherry

Wednesday, February 17th, 2010


After shooting a feature at Calcutta’s Future Hope School which rescues street children from Hell-on-Earth slums, we felt ready for R&R in Pondicherry, staying at a colonial gem in the French Quarter described in its brochure as ‘a hotel that never ceases to surprise,’ a claim born out as we entered Room 15 when a rat ran past our feet, under the bed and into the bathroom, causing Alex to immediately down her remaining Gynergene tablet, preciously reserved for severe migraines or rodent sightings, while I had to settle for a stiff lime and soda to aid recovery – being dry for nearly a year now, this proved the greatest test of resolve to date.
Once Alex’s eyeballs re-aligned and a new room was found free of wildlife we dined alfresco and, mindful of the Basil Fawlty episode, I suggested we skip the Cheese Platter lest opening the savoury biscuit tin produced a second sighting.

Pukka Chukkas

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

polo

If tired of our tabloid’s sleazy Premiership reporting, you might savour The Times of India’s Woosterish account of Sunday’s match, (above), at the Rajasthan Polo Club….

‘The very thought of a Cavalry versus Piramal clash can give you goose bumps. There will be adrenaline rush, some nasty tackles, a push here, a shove there. The rival players are close friends off the field but on the field, no one will give up an inch without a fight.
The Sunday clash assumed extra importance since the two are meeting for the Mount Shivalik Polo Challenge Cup. As expected, the fireworks were there and Cavalry pipped Piramal 5-4 in a thriller; much to the relief of talismanic Tarun Sirohi, Cavalry’s main sniper:
“I was so excited that I had my blood pressure measured immediately after the match,” said Sirohi in a post-match chat.’